Settling In

A view of the meditation area at Skogskyrkogården.

It's been a little while since I checked in, and figured that passing the 3 month mark was as good an occasion as any to give an update regarding how things are going with Kara and I. It's incredible to think that we've already spent a quarter of a year over here, and we're still uncovering the secret little treats of just our little island of Södermalm.

The last month or so has been brilliant for showcasing how the Swedes react to summer. They embrace it and make sure to go out, taking advantage of Stockholm's beautiful open spaces. My theory is that this is to make up for the notoriously dark winters that Scandinavia is known for. Personally, this has been a great summer for me, as my hayfever has been held at bay so far. Most people who know me will wince as they recall the creature I transform into during the spring and summer months. I often describe myself during these seasons as a "human snot volcano", which is an evocative phrase, even if you don't believe me. The fact that I only have Sweden's warm summer days to complain about may cause some of you to roll your eyes, but I feel like while many older people move to southern Spain for their arthritis, I can see me permanently settling in Sweden for my sinuses. Still, that's a decision for another day.

We found a Tri-force on one of our recent walks. It was fitting that Kara was wearing Zelda shoes at the time!

Kara and I have been taking advantage of living in the center of Stockholm's trendy (is it untrendy to use the word "trendy"?) part of town. Södermalm is hipster heaven, covered in tattoo studios, unironic ugly shoe shops, technology companies (such as Avalanche, Paradox & DICE) and barbers that purport to be all Victorian aesthetic, but have a PS4 in the corner. It's also covered in very cool bars that we will probably never go to, but that hasn't stopped us from appreciating the beautiful traditional spots that we've found around the island. We have been working our way around the island's edge, visiting it by quadrant and taking in the atmosphere.

Söder has many of these wonderful red brick buildings, especially along the waterfront.

These wanderings have shown us old boats from all over the world, turned into quirky, beautiful and often luxurious-looking house boats. They bob gently next to docks that see regular maintenance and usage. Many of the older ones come with plaques, denoting the origins and original function of the boat. Some of them are former American military boats that were used in the D-Day landings. There are also a few larger boats that have been converted into restaurants, hotels and even a delightfully tacky pirate-themed one, featuring a fiberglass shark dangling from a rope, and some weather beaten pirates with unconvincing comb-overs. It's a little bit like if Madame Tussauds was an attraction in Blackpool that someone had fished out of the sea.

Stockholm continues to delight pretty much every time we go walking, with so many little streets and hidden surprises. On one of the nights when summer was beginning to really blossom, we rounded a corner to find a large open square, roughly 300 square feet, that had been allocated for dancing. And it was packed. People lazed on the grass, waiting on their turn to dance, watching the cyclists, joggers and walkers passing by. I've never been summer's biggest fan, but seeing how much it meant to the Swedes to go out and claim their city was something I found really endearing.

Kara and I have also ventured outside of our immediate neighbourhood, most memorably travelling out to Skogskyrkogarden; a UNESCO world heritage sight and by far the largest cemetery I've ever visited. While Kara normally enjoys looking for the more elaborate or macabre headstones, I think we both enjoyed the peace and tranquility that permeated the area on the beautiful day that we visited. It was eye-opening to see just how many people are buried there, but the trees and landscape are something to behold.

I have been attempting to get "back on it" at the gym. This is hopefully the beginning of me getting back into rugby, which is a hobby I haven't indulged in for over 12 years now. I miss the game, and while I'm out of shape, I'd like to think that I still have some of the old instincts. That doesn't count for much if I can't run the length of the pitch without collapsing afterwards, so I'm hoping to get in a decent state in anticipation of the next year's season. Kara and I went to watch the two teams I'm considering play against each other, and I am yet to make up my mind. One team is made up of ex-pats, while the other is a more Swedish team, but both extol an ethos of inclusivity and friendship. One of them plays in green and white hoops, which is a colour scheme that makes me wonder what my dad would say if he was to see me wearing it.

Arsta Rugby Center in Stockholm is a surprising find, given Scandinavia only recently taking up the sport.

As we enter July, it becomes startlingly clear that I am about to exit my twenties. Age has never really been a significant worry for me before, but since my Dad's passing and my further analysis of my progenitor's related health issues, I do find myself with a more healthy awareness of my own body reacting to the passage of time. I don't know how much of this is exiting the normal teens and twenties "I am invincible" mentality and realising that the aches and pains you've felt the last six months aren't necessarily going away. That being said, I am very well placed for someone in their thirties. I have a beautiful wife who I just accompanied into her thirties, I work in the industry I want to make a career in, surrounded by talented and supportive colleagues, living an adventure in a city that doesn't look likely to run out of excitement in the next few years. It's a good time to be in Sweden.

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